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计划在四川省甘孜自治州新兴贡山一带攀登未踏峰达多漫因(6380m)和朗格漫因(6294m) 的“朴英锡(45•goldwinsport理事,东国大OB )远征队”6日在抵达达多漫因,不过在目标前面不得不退缩了。
远征第一阶段跨越800米墙壁、刀刃山脉后,好不容易来到达多漫因的远征队本来抱着一种登顶的期待,不过到了达多漫因才发现以他们的装备是无法攀登的。
朴队长为了悼念去年攀登珠穆朗玛峰(8050m)南西墙时因为雪崩而牺牲的李宪组、吴锡俊队员,向四川省攀登协会正式要求把这个山峰命名为“锡组峰”。
朴队长和王庆示(38•北仁川山岳会)、宋俊俏(35•SM集团大宇生命)、申东民(34•goldweinsport)、李兴牧(29• North Face)队员5日抵达了第一个终点(5200m),接着6日上午4点10分,向达多漫因出发。
关于2个山峰登顶失败,朴队长说明了2个原因。
第一是信息不足,达多漫因和朗格曼因所在的贡山一带是目前没有人攀登过的未知世界,而且四川省攀登协会对这一代也没有任何信息。朴队长也只是看了照片和地图才决定登顶的,不过事实并非如此。
第二是当地持续的恶劣天气,朴队长说:“扎营后连续15天因为雪和雾阻碍了我们的攀登,能攀登的日期也只有5天左右”。远征队将在10日回国。
---Korean climbers in China have knelt before nature in defeat.
An expedition team yesterday had to stop their plan to conquer Daddomain (6,380 meters) and Longemain (6,294 meters), two unconquered peaks in Sichuan, China.
Starting from Camp 1, they trekked through a sharp ridge through an 800-meter wall that was believed to lead to the peak. The ridge, however, dropped to a cliff.
With the remaining gear and food they had, the climbers had to return to where they started.
Conquering a peak on the first attempt is a significant accomplishment. No one has climbed Daddomain before. In their first trial at Daddomain, the expedition team confirmed the peak is a “virgin” and organized their final route through it.
Team leader Park Young-seok also filed an official request with Sichuan climbing authorities to have the peak named after his two late colleagues Lee Hyun-jo and Oh Hee-joon, who died in an avalanche when climbing Mount Everest last year.
Park and his four team members set up Camp 1 at a point 5,200 meters up and started for Daddomain at 4:10 a.m. yesterday. He cited two reasons for his team’s failure to conquer Daddomain and Longemain.
The first reason was lack of information. The mountain area surrounding Daddomain and Longemain had been unknown to the world as well as Chinese climbers. Park decided to climb based on only data he gathered from photos and maps.
The second was bad climate. “During the 15-day expedition that started after establishment of the base camp, we had only five days to climb due to heavy snow and fog,” said Park.
The expedition team will return to Korea Saturday.
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